China

Don’t worry about the tones

December 6th, 2010  |  Published in China - Language

Before I thought about coming to China seriously I think that I was faintly aware that Chinese is a “tonal language”, but I didn’t have the faintest idea what that meant.

It took me a solid couple of months to figure out the precise meaning, another three or four months to be able to reliably produce the tones with considerable forethought, and just up until the last couple of months (I’ve been studying Chinese for about 13 months now) to be able to carry a Chinese conversation with reasonable confidence that most of the tones I am uttering are correct.

But what is a tone? And why does it take more than a year of blood, sweat, and tears to be able to use them correctly in speech?

The answer to the first question is simple (of course, there are a thousand complications hiding behind the simplicity, but I’m going to avoid those here). Chinese is made up of five tones (or four, depending on how you count) which combine with the movements within the mouth that make up most English speech, which two components together comprise the bulk of how meaning is conveyed in spoken Chinese.

Take, for example, the Chinese word zhi (pronounced a lot like “jur” in juror). Zhi has dozens of different meanings, depending on the tone and the written character that is used to represent the spoken word.

So depending on the tone with which it is said, zhi has different meanings.

But what the hell is a tone?

We actually have and use pretty close approximations of each of the four main tones of Chinese in English; we just don’t happen to be aware of their use because the tones are not necessarily integral to the meaning of the word.

This is similar to how most native speakers are generally not aware of how important stress is in every English word. For example, do you know which are the stressed syllables in the words economy, economics, economist, and economical? Are you aware of how important it is to stress the correct syllable in each of these words every time you say them? Moreover, are you aware of the rules that govern why the stress syllable is indeed stressed in each of these words?

Of course you’re not familiar with the rules, but you know how to correctly pronounce each of these words. Economy is eCONomy, economics is ecoNOmics, economist is eCONomist and economical is ecoNOmical.

Non-native speakers, of course, don’t know any of this off the bat. And so they have to study the rules and practice. Which is, of course, incredibly difficult. About as difficult as it is for us English speakers to wrap our heads around and master the Chinese tones.

Let me explain the four main tones of Chinese. My explanation will focus on our varying pronunciation of the English word “Yeah”.

Of course, we say “yeah” all the time and, although we are unaware of it, the tone of our voice often indicates the meaning of the word.

For instance, when we are responding to someone and want to express polite disagreement or reserved agreement, we will often say the word “yeah” in what I consider to be a flat tone, as in: “Yeeaah, I guess sooo, but…”

This is the Chinese first tone. The voice is high, flat, inflectionless, like a musical note. “Yeah”. We say it without our voice dropping or rising, as it does sometimes in questions and commands. “Yeah, I guess so, but….” That is the Chinese first tone, also known as the flat tone, the high tone or the singing tone.

The second tone is the rising tone and it is embodied in the English question yeah. As in “yeah, so what?” The voice rises when we say it in English in a way very similar to how it rises in Chinese.

The third tone is the low tone or the dipping tone. The voice goes lower and dips just a little bit, like a downward-dipping parabola. We have a rough approximation of this tone when we say a doubtful, skeptical, almost condescending yeah, as in “yeah, but I don’t think you really understand what I’m saying”. This sound is low and longer in duration than the other tones.

The fourth tone is the falling tone. This is what I think of as the agreement tone in English. It’s friendly, happy, giddy. We use it when we use yeah to express definite agreement, as in, “yeah, I think so too!”

So those are the Chinese tones. And my point in writing this point was originally not actually to explain the tones but to say what I think about the statement “don’t worry about the tones”, which something I have heard from foreigners pretty consistently in China.

Not surprisingly, most of the people who said this to me were not very good at speaking Chinese and were painful to listen to and to understand. And I’m sure that it would be even worse for a Chinese person to listen to. And I draw a parallel between them and many of the English learners out there who we native English speakers won’t even give the time of day to. Because their pronunciation just sounds wrong.

Learning pronunciation in Chinese is mostly about learning tones. Foreigners let themselves off the hook with this “don’t worry about it” statement too often, and I know from experience that it leads to pronunciation problems down the road. And it makes those foreigners more isolated in China, unable to actually talk to Chinese people, only able to practice Chinese with other foreigners, which is not why they started learning Chinese in the first place (I don’t think).

So, if you’re learning Chinese and another foreigner throws this comforting statement your way, don’t grab onto it, don’t buy it. It will be tempting, believe me, because the tones will keep you up at night they’re so damn hard to learn. You will see yourself in your dreams opening your mouth, the tones perfectly clear in your head, but coming out in a disastrous mess as soon as your vocal chords start humming.

But don’t believe what they tell you about the tones. You’ve got to worry about them. Or they’ll never stop being your enemy.

Thankful

December 4th, 2010  |  Published in China - Life, Current Events

There are certain things that, as an American, you take for granted. And I have been realizing lately that when I was still in America there were some things I had never really thought about before — things that I have now, after living in China for 14 months, had more reason to consider.

The first one and one of the most important is that there are things we get as Americans that a lot of other people don’t get automatically; it just comes with the territory of living in an “undeveloped” country.

Like what? What could be so great about life in America that you can’t get someplace else?

Well, at first, nothing. You don’t really notice the stuff until you’ve been outside for a while. Then it all starts to stick out at you.

Take traffic, for example. At first, I just found the traffic here insane and thought no more of it. But now I think a little further, and think that the people here have no other choice. It’s their reality to almost get killed every other day crossing the street.

OK, that one’s easy. How about building codes. Does anybody inspect the buildings here to make sure they’re safe and nothing is going to fall on you and kill you? Apparently not. Exhibit A is the building that fell down in Shanghai last year complete, just fell over in one big piece. Fire escapes are rare and precarious-looking structures are ubiquitous.

This building fell over in one big piece in Shanghai last year

This building fell over in one big piece in Shanghai last year

Moving on. The next one is hospitals. One of the few foreigners I know in this town had to get his appendix removed in the local hospital, and somehow during the surgery they didn’t quite put everything back in the right place when they sewed him up. So some of his stomach muscles don’t work anymore.

Peter Hessler, in his book “River Town”, also points out that a few of his acquaintances died in his two years in a Sichuan river city, due mostly to a less safe healthcare system.

The next one is mental health. I was explaining to my Chinese teacher (who is a psychology professor) recently some of the services my sister receives as a disabled person. One of the things I mentioned was that there are social workers who come to hang out with her and take her shopping and stuff like that.

Her response was: We don’t have those kind of people in China.

I also have some personal experience with a kid with a disability who’s family is afraid of telling the public school system about the kid’s disability for fear that teachers will ignore the kid and people will ridicule him, because disabled people have no real enforceable legal rights in the education system here.

Compare that to the system in America where kids may be teased for having disabilities, but where they are also entitled to a whole host of rights and resources and modified forms of education (at least a great deal of the time), which entitlements are enforceable by suing the state.

Then, of course, there’s health care for the old, which I don’t know much about here but seems to be more or less nonexistent. I have had a couple of students whose elders have been dying or have passed away due to cancer of various varieties; the families didn’t have the money to pay for surgery so the old people just died, and this has happened occasionally with young people, too.

It’s hard to explain better than that, and probably none of this sounds particularly new or interesting. But it changes things to live here and know that if I were these people this would be my only reality — the world in which I would have to live and survive forever — and I think if that were the case for me my life would be a whole lot more oriented towards making money and finding security than it is now. Because the people here who manage to become wealthy-ish are able to have many of the securities and comforts that we’re afforded in wealthier western countries.

Many, but of course, not all.

Even more cause for a belated moment of gratitude.

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A party in Shanghai

November 4th, 2010  |  Published in China - Cultural Differences, Current Events

Ai Weiwei is a Chinese artist and activist who is famous for lots of reasons, one of which his work “Sunflower Seeds” which is now at the Tate Modern gallery in London.

AiWW's work "Sunflower Seeds" consists of 100 million hand-painted ceramic sunflower seeds on the floor of the gallery, which visitors could walk on and pick up and play with (until last month when they closed the exhibit to visitors because they were worried about dust from the seeds)

AiWW's work "Sunflower Seeds" consists of 100 million hand-painted ceramic sunflower seeds on the floor of the gallery, which visitors could walk on and pick up and play with (until last month when they closed the exhibit to visitors because they were worried about dust from the seeds)

At the moment it seems he is famous for a party that he is holding at his studio in Shanghai this Sunday. He’s inviting (from what I hear) anybody who wants to come to his studio to feast on river crab (10,000 of them).

The Chinese word for river crab (he2xie4) sounds similar to the word “harmonize” or “harmonious” (he2xie2), which is the govt slang term for what happens to things on the Internet here that daddy don’t likey.

Another work of Ai Weiwei's from a series called "finger". He was also profiled in the New Yorker earlier this year

Another work of Ai Weiwei's from a series called "finger". He was also profiled in the New Yorker earlier this year

Which is, in turn, what is happening to AiWW’s art studio in Shanghai, which apparently he spent about 7 million yuan on (or $1 m ). The government has ordered that the studio be destroyed for reasons that to my layman’s eye appear to be the bureaucratic disguise of a politically motivated act (but you can read the actual story here or here).

The reason I know about this is only because a friend of mine asked if I’d be interested in going to the party in Shanghai, which is being held this weekend, but I declined because I’m just too busy for the next two weeks to do anything but work.

But it sounds interesting. I can’t really tell how many people are planning to go but it seems like a pretty cool, quiet kind of implicit but acquiescent disagreement. The plan, from what I’ve heard/read, is just to eat crab and commemorate the destruction of the place.

My friend also mentioned that the organizers are offering to reimburse a share of some peoples’ travel expenses, but I don’t see that in any of the news stories about the party. And he said that they’re giving everybody two ceramic sunflower seeds.

There’s also a great movie about the making of the 100 million sunflower seeds that I really like because it goes to the little Chinese town where they manufactured them and there are little clips of Chinese women working that are so perfectly real. Like pretty Chinese girls in high heels sitting in an old shabby run-of-the-mill building and painting probably thousands of those seeds a day. At one point AiWW asks a woman how much money she’s made and she says about 2 or 3 thousand yuan (if my Chinese serves).

The video’s here: YouTube

Or here: Youku

AiWW also helped design the famous Bird’s Nest, aka the Beijing National Stadium, which was the architectural centerpiece of the 2008 Beijing Olympics and which is really important to a lot of people here. Especially last year people often mentioned the bird’s nest to me with a little glow of pride, and when I was in Beijing with my family this summer several people suggested that we check it out. It is pretty impressive. (Although AiWW later denounced it, classic rockstar move almost bordering on cliche but whatever.)

The Bird's Nest in Beijing, the architectural centerpiece for the Olympics in 2008

The Bird's Nest in Beijing, the architectural centerpiece for the Olympics in 2008

Oh yeah, I guess he also got a bit of a doffing by the police as a result of an art project of his in 2008…which ultimately resulted in him having to get brain surgery. I don’t want to find my site harmonized as well (I don’t have a fancy VPN anymore) so I guess I’ll just leave it at that, since I don’t have anything original to say on the subject anyway.

Except that there will be no exciting trip to Shanghai for me…too much stuff to do, I’m afraid.

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You’re not very hungry today?

October 29th, 2010  |  Published in China - Cultural Differences

There are certain comments/observations that I always took literally when I first came to China because I wasn’t used to hearing them and I didn’t know why the person was asking me them. For example:

  • Are you tired? Do you want to have a rest?

My response to this question last year was always, “No, I don’t think so…why? Do I look tired? I don’t feel tired. Well, maybe I’m a little tired. I wonder if I’m talking too slowly or something…everyone’s always asking me if I want to have a rest….BUT I’M NOT TIRED SO WHAT’S WRONG WITH ME!!?”

After about six months in-country, though, I stopped having this internal monologue whenever somebody asked me this question, because I realized they asked it because:

  1. People actually take 1-hour naps after lunch here, way, way more commonly than in the U.S., especially at college campuses…classes stop for a few hours so that the teachers and students can ALL go to their rooms and sleep
  2. Students are nervous to talk to me and don’t know what the hell else to say

A year ago, I wondered what was wrong with me whenever somebody asked me if I wanted to have a rest. No I just decide if I’m tired or not and say “yes” or “no”. Way easier.

  • You don’t like to eat very much. You’ve eaten so little.

This one also used to confuse the shit out of me. Usually at lunch/dinner I eat way more than everybody else. I take like three vegetable servings and two meat servings and an egg or a chicken leg and a bowl of rice and soup and pig out, and everybody else takes like one fucking piece of cucumber and a bowl of soup and two pounds of rice. So I used to always think…wait a minute, I just ate a ton of meat and veggies, and this person ate like nothing but rice, why are they telling me I only ate a little, WTF?

And then I realized, again, somewhere after month six-ish, that Chinese people look at eating completely differently from (warning: a few sweeping generalizations are to follow) us foreigners. Essentially, and I don’t think this is an exaggeration, Chinese people, at least here in my area, look at a tray of food and measure the amount of rice on it. And that’s the quantity of food eaten. Foreigners people (I guess meaning westerners in general but maybe just Americans), of course, look at veggies and meats as the food consumed. So when Chinese people look at my tray and see that I at like a normal westerner-person portion of rice, they don’t even see all the veggies and meats I ate. It doesn’t register. So they think I am a starving child, and I look at their meal which basically consisted of white rice and think they are a starving child, and everybody ends up saying, “What is wrong with you? You only ate a little (rice/meat), you are going to die on that diet YOU NEED TO EAT MORE WTF”

  • My life is not very interesting. I’m not very good at English.

This one is just about the necessity of modesty. Even if a student or person is super interesting or really good at English, he/she is unlikely to admit it, even after intense questioning. At this point if someone is really modest about something after I’ve given them a compliment, I just let it go and know that they heard the compliment, even if they can never verbally agree.

  • Have you eaten?

This one is basic Chinese stuff. If someone asks this, they’re not asking you to eat with them. They’re just being polite. Just like the meaningless English greeting, “how are you?” to which we all reply “good”.

The moral of this story, for me, has been in realizing that a lot of the time, especially here but also in normal life back home, there’s a lot of information I don’t know, a lot of reasons for the stuff that happens on a day to day basis. So there’s no point getting worked up about stuff that may or may not have meaning. No use interpreting things internally unless you’re sure they’re really an issue.

For example, when I ride the bus here, if someone’s sitting next to me, and then a free seat opens somewhere else, they will frequently go sit there. A year ago this made me feel terrible, and I internally assumed it was because they didn’t want to sit next to the laowai. But after a while I realized that it is far more likely that they just see that I am super tall and can’t fit in any seat on the bus and need extra space. I don’t know why/how I realized that, but I did, and for some reason I’m pretty sure it’s true (mostly because I don’t think people really mind sitting next to me…just as many times people have been super happy to sit next to me here).

Likewise, I used to be really bothered by people shouting “hello!” at me all over the place. I used to find it annoying and slightly mocking. But now I’ve actually talked to some of those people, and realized that they just really want to interact but are way too shy to just come up and talk to me. One group of kids who shouted at me like that are now my private students — paying me to teach them English. I just had to break through that barrier of shyness and realized that there was a lot of curiousity and desire to learn about my culture/language behind that somewhat intimidating, shouted greeting.

So there are definitely good things about life in China year 2. Mainly that everything gets easier and makes a hell of a lot more sense (however note the post from a couple weeks ago where I explained that nothing makes sense in China).

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Funny things about Chinese English

October 29th, 2010  |  Published in China - Language, Teaching ESL in China

As anybody who has taught English in China for a while knows, there’s a special kind of English spoken here, which has garnered its own term in Chinese and in English. That is Chinglish, or, in Chinese, Zhong1Shi4Ying1Yu3.

What that essentially means is that because students in China largely learn English in a “vacuum”, i.e. without interacting with foreigners, there are certain funny, weird, incorrect or only partly incorrect phrases that pop up a lot.

One of the first ones you hear on coming to China is, of course, “My English is not very well”, which is usually accompanied by a second of squinting and intense thought as the speaker tries to decide if she should say “well” or “good”.

There are others, and I have learned over time that it’s pretty useful in classes to directly explain the Chinese phrase I’m correcting, and then explain how to say it in English. The reality is that most students, when they speak English, will be directly translating from Chinese to English in their heads as they do so; they will not use the most natural or high-frequency English phrase. So it’s more effective teaching to “back in” to teaching oral English here sometimes — that is, start with the extremely common Chinese phrase you know they will one day translate incorrectly in conversation, and explain how to say it right.

For example, the Chinese phrase wo3you3shi4. I have something to do. That is how most students translate wo3you3shi4 (which literally means “I have an event”, but is the Chinese equivalent of “I have a previous commitment” or “something came up that I’ve got to take care of”. Students often say, “sorry, I can’t come to class because I have something to do.” Isn’t my class “something to do?” I have occasionally replied in jest. Confusion. Nobody gets the joke. It’s best just to teach the language and avoid subtle mockery.

Is it delicious? This is the question students ask when they want to know if something (you’re eating) is good or not. Someone, at some point, decided that it would be a good idea to translate the Chinese phrase “hao3chi1″, meaning, literally, “good eat”, into the word “delicious”, when in fact in spoken English we just say “good”, or “tasty”, as in, “how’s your food?” –”it’s good”

I want to play with you. This has been uttered to me by more than one student, and when I first heard it I thought I had somehow stumbled into some kind of twisted seventies softcore skin movie. You want to play with me? What? Unfortunately Chinese students never learn the correct translation of the word “wan2″, which actually means “hang out” or “do something together” but is tragically translated in English textbooks as “play”. So Chinese college students are always “playing” together in English, when they should be hanging out.

It is very fashion. This statement is the result of the words fashion and fashionable being one and the same in Chinese. And since clothes is a topic often mentioned in textbooks and lessons, the mistake pops up with annoying frequency. Yet another weird Chinglish phrase that is hard to kill.

Can you borrow me your book? Again, the result of the words lend and borrow being the same in Chinese, hence the common error.

Of course, just as there are crappy ways of translating Chinese into English, there are awkward and ugly ways of translating English into Chinese, and I utter them every day. So this isn’t a mockery or a critique of Chinese learners of English, just a short list of things that their teachers should correct them on. I’ve devoted a lesson to these four phrases for all of my classes, and the result is always nice. Just learning how to say these five things correctly goes a long way in making their English sound more authentic.

Teaching them how to correctly use the slang word “sucks” really helps, too. As in, I suck at basketball, my shoes are sucky, he is a sucky guy. Telling the students that suck means, po4, jiu4, mei2yi4si5, bu4hao3, lan4, wu2,liao2, all in one word tends to help them grasp it, I find.

Because having authentic English speakers in the classroom makes your ears feel better, and makes your students a little more fun to be around.

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One brick eaten

October 11th, 2010  |  Published in China - Life

After I had resided in this small Chinese city for about eight months, someone kindly informed me that Sanming residents have a cute little saying about themselves. That is that they all consume, on average, about one brick a year.

This is a reference to the sun-blotting-out pollution that is the signature not just of large Chinese cities but of everywhere in China, with almost no exceptions that I have seen so far — big cities, pretty mountainscapes, small villages that may be located near enormous coal mines, etc. Pollution here is a constant of life, like sunshine and rain.

In Sanming, my city, it most prominently noticeable in the whitish haze that invariably reduces visibility not in any very obtrusive way, but just enough so that when you go hiking you can never really see much of the horizon, and when you go to the mountains with friends you never (or seldom) see a truly blue sky. It’s usually more that grayish overcast color that I associate with the depth of a New England winter, sometimes with a dome of bluish-gray at the ceiling of the sky.

Then also sometimes there is the stink, especially the further west you go in the city. The west side of town is officially the pollution side — that’s where the brownish striations of coal dust and carbon decorate the buildings most noticably, the place where many buildings’ residents seem to have given up on trying to keep the windows clean, and just let the dust and ash collect and collect until everything has this sort of choked, blackened mask.

It’s sort of a strange kind of beauty, if you have the right eye for it or are in a mood to overlook it. If you don’t or you’re not, it just looks dirty, or maybe more accurately just polluted, since dirt is everywhere but pollution is something that we can more easily quantify and identify.

And then it’s in the streets some days, in the coal smell that descends over the city, the sooty cloud that billows its way from the smokestacks at the steel mill (the biggest in the province!) or the burning trash heaps or any of the other numerous pollution sources here.

At first these details, the dirt, the pollution, were overwhelmingly depressing for me, but over time I have gotten used to them, grown accustomed to the sight of coal-streaked buildings (almost all of them look this way, which is why when I first arrived in Sanming I pointed to a cluster of buildings on the horizon and asked my liaison, Are those buildings burned?), and the loud, chaotic, playfully and rambunctiously and unpredictably polluted streets.

It’s part of life here and I can’t say I like it or hate it. It just is, as I wrote somewhere else in some failed fiction no one will ever read, like the high of one’s ears or the length of one’s nose or the color of one’s skin.

The clock just passed midnight which means as of today I’ve consumed a complete Sanming brick. Happy China birthday.

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10 minutes in Starbucks

October 10th, 2010  |  Published in China - Language, China - Life

I went to Fuzhou this weekend and wanted to share an interesting experience I had going to Starbucks.

We don’t have a Starbucks in my city, and there are few in this province, so whenever I get a chance to go to one I take it. It’s like fucking Christmas every time I go. Suddenly I step from the loud chaotic uncomfortable unfamiliar world of China into an environment that totally sates every base craving I could have as an American: the corporate decor and smooth featureless music and padded overpriced comfort that is Starbucks.

The interesting thing about this trip was that my companion, a Japanese girl who teaches Japanese history in Fuzhou and whose name is Mami, does not speak English and so would have to order in Chinese. And of course I speak English and Chinese but not Japanese. And the tellers at Starbucks usually speak pretty good English and of course Chinese. And whenever I go to Starbucks I order in English because I don’t know the words for “grande black coffee, no room, with a ham and cheese panini” in Chinese (well, I don’t know grande or panini). So I took the lead and tried to order for Mami.

The problem is that when I’m with Mami it confuses everyone, because nobody knows until she starts speaking that she isn’t in fact Chinese. So Chinese people always look at me, scan over my face, and then start speaking in rapid-fire Chinese to Mami.

The only problem is, Mami’s Chinese isn’t as good as mine. So she often doesn’t understand and just nods her head, and then I have to step in and actually answer their question. But I’ve found that people usually still persist in trying to talk to Mami, not me…I’m not sure why; I think they realize pretty fast that she’s not Chinese. Maybe they figure that if this Asian-looking foreigner doesn’t understand them, there’s no way in hell the white guy standing next to her does.

Anyway, on this particular occasion I was in line with Mami and tried to order in English, but the Starbucks girl didn’t understand, so I ordered in Chinese, but there was still confusion. The place was packed. She couldn’t understand what Mami wanted. But she had my order, so I ducked out and ran to the pick-up line. Then Mami stayed there at the order line for like 10 minutes, but I had no idea what she was doing.

It turned out the Starbucks girl spoke Japanese and had lived in Japan for two years, so Mami was chatting with her in Japanese. Finally Mami came back and I started to say in Chinese to her that it seemed like everywhere we went together we confused the hell out of Chinese people, but I couldn’t remember the Chinese word for confused, but Mami happened to know the English word confused, so we stood there wondering out loud what the Chinese word for confused was.

Then a Chinese woman leaned over and told me it was wu4jie3, which actually means something like misunderstand. By this time I had checked my dictionary and found five different words for “confused”. Apparently confusion is an important concept in Chinese since it gets so many different words.

The Chinese woman spoke great English, and after a moment she started talking to Mami in English, asking her a few questions to which Mami responded by nodding and saying yes in English. Of course, Mami didn’t understand what the woman was saying, so when she asked Mami, “are you here in Fuzhou traveling?” and Mami again nodded yes, I said, in Chinese, no, we’re both teachers.

Naturally, the woman never imagined, and I’m not sure she even understood after that point, that Mami and I would be communicating exclusively in Chinese, which is actually true. Why would she? Why the hell would a white guy and a Japanese girl, both of whom have maybe only intermediate Chinese skills, be getting Starbucks together in China and using Chinese to communicate?

The whole thing makes no sense at all, but that’s China. And I surprised myself by actually being surprised when the Starbucks people told me they had run out of covers for their to-go cups. Almost as much as it surprised me the time the people at McDonald’s in Sanming told me they had run out of beef.

Nothing makes any goddamn sense in this country.

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The Summer in China

October 6th, 2010  |  Published in China - Life, Travel

I didn’t post much this summer, so here’s a little photo overview of my summer.

I lived in this building for most of the summer in downtown Sanming.

I lived in this building for most of the summer in downtown Sanming.

This is the street market where I often bought breakfast...it closed around 8:30 so I often missed breakfast and was hungry in the morning.

This is the street market where I often bought breakfast...it closed around 8:30 so I often missed breakfast and was hungry in the morning.

I bought a mountain bike and spent a lot of time biking in the mountains around the city. One day I met a high school kid and he led me on an extra long tour around the area

I bought a mountain bike and spent a lot of time biking in the mountains around the city. One day I met a high school kid and he led me on an extra long tour around the area

I taught English to a bunch of primary school kids throughout the summer. They turned out to be ingrates and dropped my class as soon as the soon year started. Teaching primary school students turned out to be basically a failed experiment

I taught English to a bunch of primary school kids throughout the summer. They turned out to be ingrates and dropped my class as soon as the soon year started. Teaching primary school students turned out to be basically a failed experiment

I went to visit my friend Natasha in Guangzhou, China, about 12 hours away by bus. She's funny funny and great, also teaching English. This is her with a Chinese man in the Catonese Opera restaurant she took me to. The Chinese guy sang some opera song (hence the makeup) and then an old woman said a bunch of stuff to us in some dialect and then gave us 100 RMB and a piece of paper with what turned out to be her name and phone number written on it. Weird.

I went to visit my friend Natasha in Guangzhou, China, about 12 hours away by bus. She's funny funny and great, also teaching English. This is her with a Chinese man in the Catonese Opera restaurant she took me to. The Chinese guy sang some opera song (hence the makeup) and then an old woman said a bunch of stuff to us in some dialect and then gave us 100 RMB and a piece of paper with what turned out to be her name and phone number written on it. Weird.

Guangzhou was a huge, modern city where the cops hassled me for no reason. It had lots of Western stuff including real hot dogs, though, which was nice.

Guangzhou was a huge, modern city where the cops hassled me for no reason. It had lots of Western stuff including real hot dogs, though, which was nice.

Guangzhou also had a military school that I checked out and that was really boring and hot, and the kids in fatigues creeped me out, until they noticed the only foreigner on the whole island and I waved and them and remembered that they were just kids.

Guangzhou also had a military school that I checked out and that was really boring and hot, and the kids in fatigues creeped me out, until they noticed the only foreigner on the whole island and I waved at them and remembered that they were just kids.

Guangzhou also had some pretty neat back alleyways.

Guangzhou also had some pretty neat back alleyways.

The city is so huge, Natasha and I wandered into one of those alleyways and it was a city unto itself; it seemed to go on forever

The city is so huge, Natasha and I wandered into one of those alleyways and it was a city unto itself; it seemed to go on forever

Some mailboxes in the alleyway near the opera house.

Some mailboxes in the alleyway near the opera house.

Near the middle of the summer I developed a big burn-like thing on my arm that I thought was a spider bite. It turned out it was an acid burn from some kind of bug that contains acid in its body...if you kill it on your skin, it slowly burns you. It hurt like a bastard

Near the middle of the summer I developed a big burn-like thing on my arm that I thought was a spider bite. It turned out it was an acid burn from some kind of bug that contains acid in its body...if you kill it on your skin, it slowly burns you. It hurt like a bastard

Toward the end of the summer, some friends and I went on a daytrip to have a barbecue cookout in the mountains nearby

Toward the end of the summer, some friends and I went on a daytrip to have a barbecue cookout in the mountains nearby

This was a supplement to the steady, perhaps excessive, diet of Chinese barbecue and beer throughout the summer

This was a supplement to the steady, perhaps excessive, diet of Chinese barbecue and beer throughout the summer. I don't know why the colors are so washed out in these photos...

Of course, MahJong (or in Chinese...majiang)...is a standard social outlet at all similar outings...but I can never participate because I haven't put in the time to learn yet and I am always a little too drunk to follow the rules by the time people start playing this at picnics and such...oy

Of course, MahJong (or in Chinese...majiang)...is a standard social outlet at all similar outings...but I can never participate because I haven't put in the time to learn yet and I am always a little too drunk to follow the rules by the time people start playing this at picnics and such...oy

The summer ended with a trip to the Fujian coast with a bunch of other foreign teachers working in Fujian. I made some new friends, and we visited a university in the area and met some students who cheered when we came in the room but were, of course, too shy to really actually talk to us

The summer ended with a trip to the Fujian coast with a bunch of other foreign teachers working in Fujian. I made some new friends, and we visited a university in the area and met some students who cheered when we came in the room but were, of course, too shy to really actually talk to us

And we took a tour of a nearby river...most of the tour was spent on the bus, though, which sucked

And we took a tour of a nearby river...most of the tour was spent on the bus, though, which sucked

The summer ended with yet another (!!!!) performance of TongNian (childhood), the song I have become slightly famous for knowing how to sing. I got a bit tired of being "informed" that I would sing the song at various events (rather than being asked) and a bit rudely told them that this time would definitely be my last time and asked them to confirm that. But I was fed up and a little rudeness was in order to get my point across

The summer ended with yet another (!!!!) performance of TongNian (childhood), the song I have become slightly famous for knowing how to sing. I got a bit tired of being "informed" that I would sing the song at various events (rather than being asked) and a bit rudely told them that this time would definitely be my last time and asked them to confirm that. But I was fed up and a little rudeness was in order to get my point across

A picture with some of the students from the final performance

A picture with some of the students from the final performance

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Yellow Mountain and the just-missed Sea of Clouds

October 6th, 2010  |  Published in China - Sightseeing, Travel

This summer I moved into a new apartment complex in the middle of the city. It's expensive but clean and has no roaches or rats. And I'm renting a small annexed apartment in a Chinese family's home, so I get to hear them shouting at each other all the time about everything, and occasionally practice Chinese with them, although I think they think I am retarded so they don't really talk to me that much

This summer I moved into a new apartment complex in the middle of the city. It's expensive but clean and has no roaches or rats. And I'm renting a small annexed apartment in a Chinese family's home, so I get to hear them shouting at each other all the time about everything, and occasionally practice Chinese with them, although I think they think I am retarded so they don't really talk to me that much

At the end of the summer, just the other day in fact, was Chinese National Day, for which we got several days of classes off. So I took a trip to Huangshan, or Yellow Mountain, about 15 hrs north by train to Anhui Province. This is the train, the hard sleeper cabin full of people chatting and kids crying and people snacking

At the end of the summer, just the other day in fact, was Chinese National Day, for which we got several days of classes off. So I took a trip to Huangshan, or Yellow Mountain, about 15 hrs north by train to Anhui Province. This is the train, the hard sleeper cabin full of people chatting and kids crying and people snacking. Sorry I don't know why this picture is sideways

The first day I arrived I went to Xidi, a small, 600-year-old village near Huangshan. This is the gate to the village. The villages in this area are famous for being funded by rich merchants who traveled far from home for work and rarely returned but sent all their money back

The first day I arrived I went to Xidi, a small, 600-year-old village near Huangshan. This is the gate to the village. The villages in this area are famous for being funded by rich merchants who traveled far from home for work and rarely returned but sent all their money back

This is an open doorway in Xidi. The place was still inhabited by real people living and working, some of whom were pretty standard in terms of being kind of poor. Which surprised me, because everything in Xidi was fairly expensive and beautiful

This is an open doorway in Xidi. The place was still inhabited by real people living and working, some of whom were pretty standard in terms of being kind of poor. Which surprised me, because everything in Xidi was fairly expensive and beautiful

I walked by a small hotel and they said I could walk to the rooftop for 3 yuan to take a picture. When I entered the building they changed the price to 10 yuan but then a cop happened to walk in and I started complaining a bit loudly and then she said, oh, ok, 3 yuan is ok

I walked by a small hotel and they said I could walk to the rooftop for 3 yuan to take a picture. When I entered the building they changed the price to 10 yuan but then a cop happened to walk in and I started complaining a bit loudly and then she said, oh, ok, 3 yuan is ok

I walked down a narrow alley for a while and then found an area that seemed to have no people and then came to this little garden courtyard near the edge of the village. It was so quiet and peaceful I just wanted to sit there all day with a cup of tea and look at the hills; it actually reminded me of being back in Vermont which is a feeling I don't get very often; but I had to go back to the hostel to check in so after a while I left and went back to Tunxi

I walked down a narrow alley for a while and then found an area that seemed to have no people and then came to this little garden courtyard near the edge of the village. It was so quiet and peaceful I just wanted to sit there all day with a cup of tea and look at the hills; it actually reminded me of being back in Vermont which is a feeling I don't get very often; but I had to go back to the hostel to check in so after a while I left and went back to Tunxi

The night after I went to Xidi I went to the hostel and got a bit buzzed and made friends with an Austrian guy who was also going to the mountain the next day. He was an 18 year old kid traveling by himself and was shy about having his picture taken, so I have no pictures of him. But anyway we both left the hostel at 6 in the morning and headed to Tangkou, and then toward the mountain. The whole trip took about 3 hours from Tunxi which again made me disappointed and pissed about my Lonely Planet Guide which doesn't really mention this detail prominently, and which as time goes on I trust less and less. These are the calves of one of the porters climbing the mountain

The night after I went to Xidi I went to the hostel and got a bit buzzed and made friends with an Austrian guy who was also going to the mountain the next day. He was an 18 year old kid traveling by himself and was shy about having his picture taken, so I have no pictures of him. But anyway we both left the hostel at 6 in the morning and headed to Tangkou, and then toward the mountain. The whole trip took about 3 hours from Tunxi which again made me disappointed and pissed about my Lonely Planet Guide which doesn't really mention this detail prominently, and which as time goes on I trust less and less. These are the calves of one of the porters climbing the mountain

The whole mountain and all the peaks at the top were so crowded that it was barely worth it. I wouldn't go back...I would just go to a different, less packed mountain in the area

The whole mountain and all the peaks at the top were so crowded that it was barely worth it. I wouldn't go back...I would just go to a different, less packed mountain in the area. Anyway it was beautiful at the top despite the crowds...I'm glad I went; the crowds just sucked. And the hike was an easy 2 or 3 hours, even though the guidebook says it's really steep and hard

This is the Welcoming Pine, the YingKeSong, that you see as you go up the eastern approach. At least I think this was it

This is the Welcoming Pine, the YingKeSong, that you see as you go up the eastern approach. At least I think this was it

The 7-8 km canyon hike that you can start from the top is definitely the most beautiful area, but you need a few hours to hike it, which Paul (the Austrian dude) and I didn't have

The 7-8 km canyon hike that you can start from the top is definitely the most beautiful area, but you need a few hours to hike it, which Paul (the Austrian dude) and I didn't have

Just to prove I actually went and didn't just download these images from the Internet, here's me somewhere around the beginning of the canyon

Just to prove I actually went and didn't just download these images from the Internet, here's me somewhere around the beginning of the canyon

Those spots of light on the rock are coins

Those spots of light on the rock are coins. The views were quite beautiful, and I probably would have been more shocked and amazed by them had I not been hiking with an Austrian, who was thoroughly unimpressed and who several times throughout the day said that Austria is more beautiful than China. Which is probably true. Hah.

I booked a tent on top of Huangshan and was planning on waking up early the next day to watch the famous "Sea of Clouds" from the top of BeiHai (north sea) peak. But then shortly after paying the 240 RMB to the guy renting the tents I checked my train ticket and realized that I had booked the wrong day for my return to Fujian, and my train left the next morning at 5 a.m. So I ditched the tent, after the asshole with a sneer and a scar on his face wouldn't give me my money back even though I had paid for the tent 20 minutes ago, and began the 4 hour journey by cable car, bus, and taxi back to Tunxi where I was lucky to find a hostel with a bed left. And then I got up the next morning at 4 to go to the train station

I booked a tent on top of Huangshan and was planning on waking up early the next day to watch the famous "Sea of Clouds" from the top of BeiHai (north sea) peak. But then shortly after paying the 240 RMB to the guy renting the tents I checked my train ticket and realized that I had booked the wrong day for my return to Fujian, and my train left the next morning at 5 a.m. So I ditched the tent, after the asshole with a sneer and a scar on his face wouldn't give me my money back even though I had paid for the tent 20 minutes ago, and began the 4 hour journey by cable car, bus, and taxi back to Tunxi where I was lucky to find a hostel with a bed left. And then I got up the next morning at 4 to go to the train station

On the bright side, though, I had booked a soft sleeper ticket because the hard sleepers were sold out, so I was greeted by fresh, clean-smelling sheets and a quiet 4-bed cabin to doze the day away in, which was a welcome decompression after a few days of frenetic solo travel

On the bright side, though, I had booked a soft sleeper ticket because the hard sleepers were sold out, so I was greeted by fresh, clean-smelling sheets and a quiet 4-bed cabin to doze the day away in, which was a welcome decompression after a few days of frenetic solo travel

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Want to come?

September 20th, 2010  |  Published in China, Teaching ESL in China

I’m not sure who reads this, but if any of the readers of this blog are interested in teaching English in China, please leave a comment with your email address.

The university where I work is looking for more teachers after something went awry with the two additional Americans who were supposed to come.

Of course, it’s a complicated process and anyone who came would have to wait at least a couple of months in order to get expert licenses and visa papers squared away. Oh yeah, and I guess packing up your entire existence.

Anyway, on the off chance, let me know.

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