Hong Kong: The 10-day visa run
February 17th, 2010 | Published in China - Sightseeing | 3 Comments

Hong Kong is a very Western city dropped in the middle of Asia: When I arrived there by subway I had the reverse sensation from what someone coming directly from the West might feel: it seemed totally familiar to me, way more like home than mainland China.
I just returned from 10 days in Hong Kong. I initially went there because my tourist visa ran out and it wasn’t possible for me to remain in China without going to Hong Kong (“HK”) to switch to a working visa. But, my employer (a university in Fujian Province) hadn’t finished securing a proper working license for me. So off I went to Hong Kong, to wait for an indeterminate amount of time for the school to finish securing the working license and then mail it to me. I left mainland China on Feb. 3 and returned to my home on the 17th, so in all the trip was about two weeks long.

The view from the 43rd floor of the Bank of China building, next to the tram that goes to the top of Victoria Peak. The tall building at center is called IFC2.
One of the first sights I saw was this one. The Bank of China building lets you go to the 43rd floor viewing deck for free, which is not spectacular but I would say worth it, especially if it’s foggy and you’re not sure there will be much of a view from Victoria Peak (which was the case for me), which is the mountain next to HK that you can take a fairly expensive tram up to see the whole city.

I met some cool German folks and went to the Bank of China building with them. This is them.
And onto the next thing…

A gracious CouchSurfing host took me on a walk through the Night Market.
And then…

I'm not sure she wanted me to take her picture, but I took this one anyway. : ) I would highly recommend CouchSurfing to anyone even considering traveling, because it's awesome.
And then…

We crossed the harbor from Kowloon (the touristy peninsula north of HK that is still part of HK) to Hong Kong Island on the Star Ferry. The Ferry is quick, cheap, and nicer than the subway.
To have a beer and some tobacco…

On a pedestrian bridge on the way to the bar we saw a lot of these "No Hawking" signs, which were an amusing rebuke to the habits of mainlanders. As my host informed me, Hong Kongers take pride in being "different" from mainlanders. These signs were amusing evidence of that.
And to the hookah bar…

This tiny bar with outdoor seating was located right next to Lan Kwai Fong, in Central on Hong Kong Island, right down the road from a little Japanese barbecue shop. Highly recommended.
Hanging out, drinking beers and smoking hookah was one of the big highlights of the trip. That is something I could never do in Fujian Province. The tobacco was 150 HKD, which is roughly 140 RMB (Chinese money) or about $22 US, which, if you’re on a mainland China budget, is a lot of money (especially with $50HKD beers added in). In all, including travel expenses, visa costs, eating and hotel, I spent about 8000 RMB on my two-week foray to Hong Kong, or a bit over $1000 U.S. dollars. Considering that I make 4000 RMB per month in the mainland, somewhere around $500, every time I opened my wallet in Hong Kong, I cringed.

Hong Kong features what is apprently the "world's largest permanent light show", called the Symphony of Light, which shows right next to the ferry stop on the Kowloon side of the harbor every night at 8 p.m. Pretty, even if the music is weak.
Another reason to do CouchSurfing: the natives can tell you what to do in the area. My first host suggested this light show, which was a fun free thing to do that I checked out the next day after we hung out.

An alley just north of the "SoHo" (south of Hollywood Rd) area
The hostel I stayed in for my 9 nights in Hong Kong, in Kowloon (in the ChungKing mansions) was definitely, without doubt, the cheapest in HK (I had a private single room for 180 HKD, or about $25 USD, per night), but food in the area was no good, it was loud and Kowloon is generally not a fun place to hang out. So I spent a lot of time on Hong Kong Island around the “SoHo” area, which has a lot more charm and more eating options.

These guys were using a badminton-shuttlecock-like object to play hackey sack, and they almost never dropped it. I thought it was cool so I just snapped some photos.
Another…

Closest-up of the object as I could get
And then…

There's a temple in Central Hong Kong Island called the Man Mo Temple.
Incense…

These large burning incense coils filled the air with smoke such that it quickly became difficult to breathe or see. So I soon left, coughing and wiping my eyes.
And then…

Back to Kowloon each evening to go to bed. The hostel where I was staying, the ChungKing Mansions, featured a loud and chaotic Indian market on the ground floor, with lots of guys hawking all kinds of goods. Coming home late in the evening was a little sketchy only because the goods they were hawking became increasingly illicit as the hour got later.
Note the cool red Hong Kong taxis in the previous photo…

A shot from the Star Ferry Terminal, Kowloon side I think. The Star Ferry is great, cheap, and makes the outlying islands really easily accessible. And it runs frequently.
And then…

On my second-to-last day in Hong Kong I took the ferry to Lamma Island, which is a small, more relaxed and much cheaper island right next to Hong Kong Island.
The ferry was easy and cheap and took about 40 minutes to Lamma Island. And as soon as I arrived there I realized I should have gone much earlier in my Hong Kong trip (considering how long I was there and how I spent a lot of time just relaxing and trying to minimize expenses)…

Lamma was relaxed, comfortable, friendly, and cheap. And on the day I went it finally became sunny and warm in Hong Kong, which was a good feeling.
After getting off the ferry I met a guy from Switzerland who had just got his bachelor’s degree in medicine and was taking a year off to travel before going to medical school. He had been to Japan, Korea and Thailand, and was spending a few more days in HK before going to mainland China. He helped me find the beach and then we parted ways, I think both feeling a little awkward because we were both traveling solo and not totally accustomed to talking a lot. I kept meeting people like that in Hong Kong, travelers anyway, many of whom had been all over Asia or were starting out to go all over Asia.

A beach in Lamma. I didn't swim, but the water was nice enough to.
After sitting on the beach and reading the latest New Yorker (another commodity I’m not afforded in the mainland) I decided I had enough time to walk the mile or so across Lamma Island to the small mainland-style town on the other end of the island (the town was Sok Kwu Wan, and was nowhere near as cool as the town I landed in, to the north, Yung Shue Wan)…

...and I snapped this picture on the hike, which was fun and worth it...the town in the background is Sok Kwu Wan.
And that was my trip to Hong Kong. There were other things I saw that I photographed with my disposable film camera, such as the Big Buddha (cool, but if you go, take the tram; the rattly, nauseating bus ride is rough) and the tram to the top of Victoria Peak (it was too foggy to see anything). And there was the night on the town I spent with some Italian friends I met on CouchSurfing.com; that night and meeting up with the other person from CouchSurfing were the best parts of the whole trip. There’s nothing like meeting people from a foreign land. But after my day in Lamma, I picked up my visa from the travel agency and was good to go back to the mainland. So I said so-long to ample Starbucks everywhere, Western food choices and ubiquitous English speakers, and took the Hong Kong MTA back up to Lo Wu, where you can simply walk through Chinese customs within the Shenzhen train terminal (which is attached to the Lu Wo MTA station).
Of course, the day I returned to mainland China to travel back to Fujian was the eve of the Chinese New Year, which is the most hellacious time possible to be traveling in China. So all train tickets for days were totally sold out. Instead, I had to settled for a late-night sleeper bus back to a major city in Fujian, from where I would have to figure out another way to get the rest of the way to my home city, Sanming (this ultimately involved lots of waiting in the rain, waiting in the 24-hour McDonald’s, waiting in the hotel, riding another bus to another city that was not Sanming, and then getting picked up by a very gracious colleage from the college).
To get to the sleeper bus, I had to endure a very sketchy 15-minute ride in the back of a van, scrunched up in the trunk area with the luggage, not sure where we were heading because I had only understood a little of the Chinese the driver said to me. But we made it to the bus, and there was indeed a sleeper bed there for me.

The tiny bunk beds on the bus to Fujian from Shenzhen...back in the mainland. : )
And, last, the grainy shot of me in my sleeper bunk. The bus was definitely tolerable and fine for the 10-hour trip back to Fujian…I think I slept for a few hours.

Grainy shot, sleeper bus, around 9 p.m. Cost of trip from Shenzhen to Xiamen, Fujian: 305 RMB, or about $45 US Dollars. Good night and good luck.
July 12th, 2010 at 10:08 am (#)
[...] that much of a shock, and it felt really good to be back on the streets of Hong Kong (I spent 10 days there in the spring waiting for a new visa), cruising around on their super clean and efficient subway system and walking down the streets, [...]
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